From Kohukohu to Kaitaia via the West Coast
This trip starts at Kohukohu or the northern Ferry
terminal.
Travel west along West Coast Road,
past the remains of the Motukaraka Dairy factory and
follow the road to Panguru. Just before you get to
Panguru, look for Runaruna Road on
your right.
This metalled road winds and climbs for several km,
and eventually joins the sealed road that is the Twin
Coast Highway from Broadwood to Ahipara. The quicker,
but less interesting way to reach this point, is to
travel from Kohukohu to Broadwood and on.
At the junction, turn left and follow the signs to
Pawarenga. This road leads you down
to the south shore of the Whangape Harbour, past several
churches and Marae, until at its end you come to the
Harbour’s edge.
Turn up the side road to your left and you will come
to St. Gabriel’s Church. The church dates from
1899, but in the grave yard you will find interesting
and unusual headstones that record several burials
within a family. Notable are two women who lived for
over 100 years.
Beyond the church towards the Harbour entrance is
the monument to the Aupori tribe. The story of their
escape from invading Ngapuhi is fascinating.
Whangape Harbour is shaped a bit like a key hole,
with a long fiord-like entrance opening up to a well
sheltered harbour. The settlement of Whangape is on
the North side. On the south side of the entrance
is a walkway known as the Golden Staircase.
Return the way you came and when you reach the seal
turn left towards ‘Ahipara’. On the way
you will pass Herekino, another small harbour with
connections to early European settlement. The settlement
of Herekino and the Harbour is only a short detour
to the left.
Ahipara, which means ‘sacred fire’, is
the southern end of Ninety Mile beach, which is actually
only 64 km long and was in earlier times a base for
the gum digging industry.
From Ahipara follow the signs to Kaitaia, which is
the principal town in the Far North.
From Kaitaia you have several options: